1) Vacuum ports
I know that more than one person will (rightfully) think or even say out loud, if you'd left it stock, those inlet manifolds would have come with a set of perfectly good vacuum ports... Well it's not an option and whereas I agree that you can totally get the engine to run right by just syncing the flatslides by eye and ear, doing it with a set of clocks will actually yield some benefits in terms of fuel consumption as you simply get it closer to spot on than by the affore mentioned methods.
A press fit would be perfectly sufficient and if you have a look at what your local metal dealer has got in stock and what you have in drills it should be quite easy to achieve satisfying results, but that bit of epoxy is giving me some peace of mind.
The tubing in my case is 5mm o.d. stainless and sticks out by about 15mm and if you do it, 20mm might be a bit better.
2) Insufficient backlighting of the clocks
In the past I had to run LEDs everywhere possible on the bike as in reality I had only two of the three phases of the alternator working. Now LED-technology is making giant leaps on what feels an almost daily basis.
About 30 Euro-cents gets you a wide-angle LED and to be honest I had next to no hopes for them to be any better than the old LEDs that were in there already...
The lighting is with a single LED and as is obvious the whole clock is very well and pretty equally lit all the way round. (Ignore the brighter spot near 10k, that's because of the angle of the photo.)
Over time the old mounting rubbers of the clocks shrunk a bit and needed a bit of reinforcement. My local hardware store had some of these black rubber washers in stock, which appear to be perfect to stop the clocks from bouncing around on bad roads.
3) choke cable
Having a handlebar-mounted choke is only useful, if it works properly. So I had to shorten the cable a bit to stop it from leaving it's place on the lever.
4) New center-section of the frame and new swingarm
The swingarm bolt in my old frame was seized and the bearings at the very least would have desperately needed some greasing, so blessed is he, who hoards.
And lastly as the old locking tab plate was beyond hope and I didn't fully trust "just loctite", I decided to go with some drilled allenhead bolts and some locking wire to keep things where they should.
As you can see, it's always a smart move to mark the lock on a chain in order to make finding it at a later date easier. Also, even though the old chain was perfectly fine after 117,000km, unfortunately it was discontinued several years ago and as such it was impossible for me to buy a new lock, so I could re-use it when swapping the rubber chain sleeves. So I had to get a new 630 chain as well.
So what can I say in retrospect to my previous post: I was really keen to see, if all that work has paid off – and it did.
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