As you've already seen the three-leg-puller the only other special tool you'll really need on the lower engine case is this L-shaped plate used to push out and pull in the crank. The studs are M8 and with a bit of measuring it shouldn't be too hard copy my design.
The two inner bolts push against the face of the crank bearing and thereby sparing you from removing (and ruining) the oilpump sprocket on the crank taper. The cases should be heated properly to facilitate crank removal and prevent the bearing seat from damage.
The head shown is actually one of the stock TR1 heads taken from this engine, but with polished inlet and exhaust valves. Basically showing that it isn't as pointless as a lot of people say to polish valves. The hotter exhaust valve was (as you can see) still quite clean, even though it had done more than 10,000km. The valves on the 1100 heads were finished the same way.
The cylinders are installed.
Truth be told those pictures were taken almost two years ago and then the engine and rear subframe went into a long hibernation period, where it mostly served as a jig for building TR1-exhausts...